The vast majority of commercially available stands for aquariums have very limited space and poor accessiblity. Constructing your own is very simple, can build to your exact requirements and costs a significant amount less than having someone else do it.
View of the entire aquarium set up in October 2004.
In this particular plan, the stand will be 900mm high, 1530mm long and 620mm deep with the protein skimmer cupboard fitting beside it, 1880mm high, 300mm long and 620mm deep. The stand will be more than adequate to support the weight of the 610 lt tank which will weigh just under 1,000 kg when the tank is filled completely. A diagram of the stand is shown below.
Tank stand diagram.
The following materials was used in the construction of the stand.
2 x 4.8m length, 90mm x 35mm Pine Board
For the base of the stand.
Gives a larger surface area for the weight to be distributed over.
2 x 1.5m, 2 x 1.8m and 2x 2.4m lengths, 75mm x 35mm Pine Board
For the top and vertical supports of the stand, and bits in the cupboard.
1550mm x 650mm x 12mm Chip Board
This is to form the internal base of the stand.
16 x 4.8m lengths, Pine Lining Board
This is what covers the outside of the stand, cupboard and doors, making it better to look at.
Not all of this was required for these, the remaining will be used for the hood.
3 x Pine Door Knob
To open the doors. Used pine so that can be stained that same colour as the rest.
1 x 915mm x 29mm Continuous Brass Hinge
For the hinges on all three doors, just cut the hinge into lengths required.
Brass so that will not corrode in the saltwater environment.
2 x 1lt x Wood Varnish
Seal the wood against water, avoiding warping and swelling of the stand and cupboard.
750ml x Wood Stain, Baltic Pine
To colour the pine to a nice colour.
400g Putty
To fill in all the nail holes, putting the nails out of view, and any other holes in the wood.
Miscellanious Screws/Nails
To hold the whole thing together, had all these already.
Completed tank stand with doors closed.
First the base and top was assembled, using mitre joints, PVA glue, nails and 100mm screws. Screws were used as provide superior holding ability. The top and base were sized to just a little bit larger, about 5mm, than that of the tank. Each was braced with a piece of wood to ensure that it was square. The vertical supports then were inserted, and further braces added to ensure stayed square. The frame was left for several days to allow the PVA glue to cure. A chip board base, with slits cut out for the verticle supports and vanished, was then inserted.
It is recommended to never use chipboard, MDF or any type of particle board near an aquarium. They fall apart very quickly under contact with water, and it doesn't matter how well it is sealed. Eventually the water will make its way through. This stand started to get water through the seal noticalbly after about 3 years of use.
Next the the lining boards, with the inside of the boards vanished prior to attachment, were attached on the sides and back, using 25mm nails. The braces where left attached until all the lining boards were attached. Excess board, hanging over the ends, were planed off and the nails counter sunk by a nail punch. The nail holes were filled with putty, so that will be out of view. Holes were bored into the back to allow through water piping, electrical wires and allow ventilation which will be supplied via a small 240V AC electrical equipment cooling fan. This was changed to a large bathroom fan after a couple of years. Much quieter and cheaper. The lining boards were then stained, paying particlular attention to the joins.
The doors are assembles by first building a frame then attaching lining boards to the back using PVA glue on all the joins, see the photo for the finish that this gives. A curve was shaped into the top of the frames using a jigsaw, gives a better look than four staight sides. The frames were built out of pine that was already available, 12.5mm thick, and the lining boards had to be cut such that they would fit inside the holes in the stand for the doors. The completed doors were allowed to dry, then stained. To hang the doors, they were placed in position, with the stand laying on its back. The doors were then carefully opened, ensuring that the edges did not move, and then the position of the hinges and screw holes marked. The hinges were attached to the door first, then to the stand with only two screws used initially to check the alignment. Adjustments were made until aligned correctly, then all the screws put in.
Recently I changed the way the doors are attached. The hinges were removed and velcro was attached to the stand and the doors. So the doors can now be fully removed from the tank stand, getting them right out of the way, improving access to the stand contents further.
A similar assembly procedure was used for the protein skimmer cupboard. This cupboard is now actually being used to house the calcium reactor and cylinder, as shown in the below images.
Protein skimmer cupboard.
Once both were completed, several coats of varnish were applied all over to ensure that is water proof. And viola, there you have a tank stand and skimmer cupboard :).
Empty tank, stand and protein skimmer cupboard.
Top section of the "protein skimmer" cupboard, containing the calcium reactor.
Top section of the "protein skimmer" cupboard, containing the calcium reactor carbon dioxide cylinder.
Comments
Written by
on 2006-06-13 11:37:51I never thought of making a cupboard for my skimmer. That is kickass. Now you have more room for your refuge under the tank. Very very smart.
help with construction of a 3*2*2 foot m Written by
on 2007-05-18 16:25:17Hi I saw ur tanks and there great!
I'm in the process of building a marine tanks stand and the tank its self is going to be 10mm around the sides and 12 mm on the bottom (glass) yeah I know it's over kill but it wont explode out on to me umm could u please give me some tips on how to build it and what sort of measurments to use?
The stand will be housing the sump with biological filtration and also a chiller.
Thanks Logan
Re: help with construction of Written by
on 2007-05-18 16:36:19Logan, not really sure what you want to know, as that question is rather open ended. But making a tank stand is very easy.
The easiest way to do it is to simply make two rectangles of the right dimensions for the top and bottom. Then use simply butt joints for the legs in between. This is only a good way to do it though if you have sides on the stand, which add to the strength for lateral stress. Without sides, in the case of open stands, then this is a very bad way of doing it.
The stronger way to attach the legs and the top/base is to use a type of mortise and tenon joint. Much stronger and will do the job well for open stands. Or even using a dowel joint will do a good job.
Best of luck with it.
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