In order to get exactly what was wanted and the fact that all the lighting was being purchase in a basic form without reflectors or mountings, then a hood was designed and built using aluminium sheeting. It is designed to hold four metal halide globes and four fluorescent globes. The fluorsecents are aligned in pairs length ways on either side of the metal halides which run down the center, equally spaced. Currently only two of the metal halides are operating, but the places for the further two are present and ready to accept the additional lights. Actually about to construct a new hood to replace this one, so stay tuned for some improved plans here.
Top view of the tank canopy, showing the lighting hood hanging aobve the tank.
Under side of the aluminium lighitng hood.
The parts used for its construction of the hood is as follows:
1.2mm x 750mm x 1700mm Aluminium Sheeting
This is to make the hood with.
Alumiunium is used as highly corrosion resistant, a strong oxide layer forms on the surface, and also a good heat conductor.
The heat conductivity may assist in dissapating the excessive amount of heat that the metal halides will generate.
1.0mm x ?mm x ?mm Dimpled Aluminium Sheeting
A reflective surface is required to reflect as much light as possible down into the tank.
This is used to make the reflectors for all the globes, metal halides and fluorescents.
1.6mm x 15mm Aluminium Angle
This is to allow a point to attach the hanging chain to and to help mount the fluorescent and metal halide sockets.
Some of this was lying around, so did not have to purchase this.
1m x 5mm Brass Chain
This is to hang the hood from the canopy rail.
Three attachment points are used, as this is the easiest number to work with.
Allows good control over the angle of the hood and easy to make sure level.
1 pkt 4mm x 30mm Brass Bolts
To hold down the fluorescent lighting brackets and wire junctions.
1 pkt Aluminium Pop Rivets
To fix the lot together.
Nice and simple and joints the sheeting together well.
Another view showing how the hood is hanging in the lighting canopy above the tank.
Construction: might get time to add some details of this at a later date.
The equipment for the fluorescent lights, globes, ballast, etc required is as follows.
2 x Atco 40W 240V AC 50 Hz Ballast
These are what supplies the correct current to the globes to keep them operating.
2 x Starter Sockets
To mount the starters in.
2 x Philips S10 Starters
Light the globes when they are turned on.
4 x Fluorescent End Socket
These are what the globes plug into, two required per globe.
1 x 240V AC Plug
To plug the lights into the digital timer.
5m x 240V 3 Ply Cord
This is to supply wire from the ballast to the sockets and the ballasts to the power plug.
2 x 40W Actinic Aqua Coral TL/03
These globes are 4' long.
Note that HO and VHO are not currently available here in Australia.
1 x 12 Strip Junction
Handy way to join two pieces of wire and can easily be separated.
1 x Kambrook Digital Timer
To turn the fluorescent lights on and off.
Both of the tubes will be connected to the same timer, as not really worth having more than one when they are only 40W each.
Fluorescent lighting socket mounting.
Construction: might get time to add some details of this at a later date.
The equipment for the metal halide lights, globes, ballast, etc required is as follows.
2 x 250W Metal Halide Gear
This includes the ballast and starter all mounted together.
2 x 250 W 6,000K Tunstram Globes
Highest colour temperature that could find from this supplier, and is high enough for most reef applications.
2 x Porcelain Lamp Holder
Sockets for the metal halide globes to screw into.
2 x Kambrook Digital Timer
To turn the lights on and off in a regular cycle.
Construction: might get time to add some details of this at a later date.
Close up of the mounting for fluorescent and metal halide ballasts under the stand.
Showing lighting ballasts in stand, metal halids on right, fluorescent on the left.
Comments
Electrical Safety Written by Jason on 2007-08-31 12:04:13It is a good idea to ground any exposed metal that is near hazardous voltages. That way a fuse will blow or a 'safety switch' will trip, preventing the exposed metal from becoming live if a fault occurs. An earthed crimp lug bolted to the metal surface will do the job. Great web site, thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Building my own hood Written by
on 2007-10-24 10:37:48I am building my own hood. I would like to include all four ballasts on the inside of the unit. Are there any concerns with regards to heat build up or shielding issues between the VHO's and the halides ?
Re: Building my own hood Written by
on 2007-10-24 10:39:53I would be more worried about the fact that you have the ballasts above the water of the tank. There are also some heat issues, such as the heat source being closer to the water itself, meaning more may be added to the system, increasing temperature. Then the effects of the heat on various items it is close to, such as the plastic.
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