Use test kit values as a guide for how things are going over time, not an absolute value to aim for. Test kits have questionable accuracy, so chasing the "ideal" numbers will be problematic.
Just thought I'd share a few pics and details for a new hood that I
have put together for my 2 foot tank. This tank has been in a bit of a
holding pattern during two house moves last year, and in the words of
my wife, has always "looked like a science experiment".
Now it's time to give it a little TLC, and first up is a lighting
upgrade.
Full shot of the 2 foot tank hood installed on.
I decided on 4 x 24W High Output T5 fluorescents. I was tossing up
between that or a 150W shoplighter. I ended up going fluoro largely
just because the the T5's are relatively new on the scene and I was
interested to give them a go. It probably would have been cheaper and
easier to go with the MH, but what's the fun in taking the cheap and
easy route.
T5 endcaps.
T5 ballasts.
In designing the hood, the criteria I applied were:
Whilst accommodating the T5's, wanted to leave the way open to fit a shoplighter at some stage in the future.
Wanted to be able to lift the whole top away to give clear access to the tank
Wanted to leave the back edge of the tank open for hang-on appliances, power cords, float switch etc.
Wanted to get the tubes as close to the water surface as I could.
Construction is solid pine.
Hinges and screws are all stainless steel.
Inside finish is 3 coats of white enamel paint
Outside finish is 3 coats of clear marine varnish.
Hood open.
Hood open with lights on.
Waterproof endcaps, cables and lamps sourced from Litoria.
Ballasts and reflectors sourced from Reduced. Currently are running 2 x Sylvania Aquastar (10,000K), 1 x 6500K Daylight, 1 x Sylvania Coralstar Actinic.
Brightness comparison of the T5 versus NO fluorescent.
Hang on filter on back of tank that hood has to go over.
Inside the hood with lights on.
The rear lamp was mounted about 50mm higher than the other 3 lamps to
enable clearance to fit an hang-on filter that I use (without media) to
break up the tank water surface, extra circulation and as a kalk/top-up
dosing point.
Finished hood installed.
Comments
Web page problems Written by
on 2006-10-04 15:04:53Great project! I followed the link for the ballasts and it came up with some page that made no sense to me. Any ideas?
Revised link Written by
on 2006-10-13 11:51:14Reduced has had a change of company name and website.
Mr Written by
on 2007-01-11 13:09:14Just about to set up my own reef aquarium and lighting is about my hardest choice. Great to see your project - gives me confidence to have a go at doing the lighting myself - have been looking for a suitable flouro system to buy but going round in circles.
One question - where did you get the reflectors? Thanks John
Reflectors Written by
on 2007-04-19 10:24:15The reflectors are custom made for Advanced Reef and are available through both myself and Litoria.
Written by
on 2007-08-31 12:05:01Thats a great setup, im doing mine right now and decided to go with the T5 as well, I live in Wodonga so my options arent like Melbourne and Sydney people, so i went to the local Middy's electrical supply and they can get me a dual globe t5 unit complete for $58 dollars.
Seeing you know your stuff, what sort of globes should i fit for a 4 ft tank with some freshwater tropicals and a few live plants.
Trev
Ballast waterproof end covers Written by
on 2008-01-31 12:17:30Hi Colin, Great setup! I am looking for the ballast end covers that you have in the the ballast picture - http://ozreef.org/component/option,com_gallery/Itemid,46/set_albumName,diy/id,t5_ballasts/include,view_photo.php/, where can i buy the same item? Is it ok if i will install the ballast under the tank/cabinet? Thanks, Darwin
Ballast end covers Written by Colin on 2008-02-08 12:31:48The black plastic end covers are not waterproof. They are nothing more than a black plastic jiffy box (or electronic project box) purchased from Dick Smith. I cut it in half and mounted half of it at each end of the ballasts to cover all the connectors. There are holes drilled / cut to provide access to cables.
What is not really visible in the picture is that there is a piece of clear acrylic that runs between the two black boxes (behind the ballasts).
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