The activated carbon is held in a DIY column that hangs on the inside of the sump. Water is fed to the column using a dedicated Hagen Aquaclear 402 pump, which is located on the upstream side of the last sump baffle. Water after passing through the activated carbon is then returned on the otherside of the baffle, where the return sump inlet is located. This eliminates the chance of any water being processed more than once before returning to the display tank.

What I think is probably one of the biggest dangers for a reef aquarium is the loss of electricity for significant lengths of time. A significant length of time here is probably over 2-3 hours. Less than that and it wont normally cause any real problems. But a sustained power outage for half a day or more will mean the end of the reef aquarium.

Camera that is currently being used to produce the images on this site is a Konica MinoltaDimage Z3.  The Z3 has a 4 mega pixel CCD, 12x optical zoom (35-420mm) and a fantastic super macro ability (down to approximately 1cm from the object being imaged).

A plastic float valve is used in the sump for the addition of evaporation top up water. The valve is located within the sump section containing the return pump inlet. This means that any change in water volume in the entire system will cause a change of the water level in this section, providing a very accurate way of maintaining a constant system salinity. However, the salinity still needs to be monitored as salinity can still vary due to loss of salt in the protein skimmer skimate and salt creep. Connected to the float valve is a 25 litre plastic drum, which actually holds nearly 30 litres of water. Depending on the temperature and humidity, this can be sufficient to last for 2 days to 1 week.

Since there is a Zebrasoma veliferum in the tank a significant amount of food provided to is nori. The type used is shown in the below image and the tang gets usually one quarter of a sheet per day. That is torn up into small fragments, soaked in water, then pored into the feeding ring. Depending on time, that will either be in one hit, or over a half an hour. It will tend to also be provided at the same time with the reef aquarium food that I make up myself.

Photograph comparing the appearence of the OZ REEF enclosure under 6,000K and 20,000K metal halide bulbs.

The diagram below shows how for the first couple of years the equipment was arranged to provide the appropriate conditions within the system.

The camera that use to be used to produce the images on this site was a Canon PowerShot 350.

Providing the correct and stability salinity is very important, and to do so you need to have the ability to measured its value accurately. Until recently I used the swing arm type hydrometer (and probably will for a quick check), however, they need to be calibrated. Out of the box the swing arm hydrometers give a reading that can very significantly between units. Finally I spent the $120 for one and here is some details on it and how to use it.

This is bit of an area that many reefs tend to not consider.  It is very important to have sufficient gas exchange to and from the aquarium.  Not only do you have to consider the water movement within the tank, but also air movement over the top of the water surface and air exchange between the room that the tank is located in and the outside.